Focus on Italian Olive Oil
Focus on: Italian Olive Oil
Italy is the second largest producer of olive oil in the world. Its annual production varies between 500,000 and 700,000 metric tonnes with 40% coming from Puglia in the south. Other major areas of production include Calabria, Sicily and Campania. Italy has a rich heritage of olive cultivation with over 700 different olive varieties. The most popular olive used for making oil is the Cortina olive that is used in the largest Italian olive growing region of Puglia. The two cultivars that are particularly prevalent in the centre of Italy are Leccino and Frantoio both of these varieties originate from Tuscany and are extremely hardy.
Today, Italian olive production covers approximately 1,700,000 ha predominantly located in Southern Italy which accounts for almost 79% of the country’s olive oil production. The remaining oil comes from the Central regions (almost 19%) and the North (just over 2%)
The main olive oil producing regions in Italy:
Approximate hectares of olive tree cultivation
Southern Italy
Puglia 370,000 ha
Calabria 186 000 ha
Sicily 160 000 ha
Central-Northern Italy
Tuscany 108,000 ha
Lazio 87 000 ha
Campania 81 000 ha
Abruzzo 44,000 ha
Other regions
Sardinia 39,000 ha
Basilicata 31,000 ha
Umbria 28,000 ha
Liguria 14,000 ha
Different olive oil characteristics are typically associated with the three areas of cultivation and are influenced by the conditions experienced in the microclimates within each region. Microclimates are defined by the influence of the Adriatic, Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, different soil formations and the weather and terrain of each area.
For example in Calabria, Sicily, Puglia, and Sardinia olive trees are grown on flat land at sea level and up to 700–800 m above sea level (a.s.l.) in hilly sites. The regional variations can result in the same olive varieties yielding crops with very different flavours and characteristics.
In the pre-Apennine areas of central-north Italy such as Umbria, Tuscany and Marche, the area suited for olive-tree cultivation is restricted to the zone from 200–250m a.s.l. to 400–450 m a.s.l. In this environment the nature of the oils produced is linked to characteristics of the varieties grown, their mix in the field, and how the oil blends are produced.
In the Lombard lakes and more precisely in the Garda and Iseo areas growers benefit from the influence of the lakes and the short growing season, particularly the mild summer temperatures and quite a high rainfall in late summer and autumn. All of this, in combination with the blend of local olive varieties, produces an Extra Virgin Olive Oil characterized by a medium–light fruity, almost pungent, sweet flavour.
Italy has led the way in labelling their oils with classifications certified on the basis of regular controls on the cultivation, the production of olives and the processes used to obtain Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Classifications include:
Protected Denomination of Origin (DOP) covering 24 olive producing regions and 38 olive oils (15 more are in the application process awaiting recognition)
Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) represented by one area in Tuscany (Olio Tuscano)
‘Traditional guaranteed products’ status is decided by the Regions and approved by Italy’s Agriculture ministry and covers 38 further products
Total annual production of both DOP and IGP olive oils is currently estimated at about 3,400 tonnes, 1,360 tonnes of which is represented by Tuscany IGP. Around 17.5% of the DOP and IGP oil produced is used in household consumption whilst the surplus is destined for export.
Organic olive oil, the other niche product sector for Extra Virgin Olive Oil, has a production area in Italy of around 77,000 ha, mainly situated in Calabria, Puglia, Tuscany, Sicily, Sardinia and Campania. The production of organic olive oil in Italy is estimated at 25,000 tonnes/year and household consumption accounts for just 4% whilst the remainder is destined for export.
Italy is the world leader in olive oil consumption with an annual usage of 650 000 tonnes, about 12 kg per head of population, consequently it is not surprising to note that Italy actually imports more olive oil than it produces; olive oil imports to Italy commonly exceed 500 000 tonnes/year.
The Italian’s have developed the ability to blend oil from other places and convert it into products sold internationally and these imports from other producer countries such as Spain, Greece, Tunisia and Turkey are used not only for household consumption in Italy but also for blending with Italian produced oils for re-export to USA, Japan, Canada and Australia. In fact only around one fifth of the national crop is consumed within Italy with about 300 000 tonnes of Italian olive oil per year being blended into oils for export. Due to the changeable quality of local olive harvest, blenders tailor oils to a taste profile to make sure the oil, whilst not amazing, is consistent. It is this reliability that is the key to their continued success. Some of the most famous brands associated with Italy use oil from all over the Mediterranean basin.
Let’s take a look at some of the olive varieties that give Italian olive oil its distinctive characteristics:
Coratina
This cultivar is the most important olive grown for oil in Italy and is found widely throughout the South. It is extremely hardy and adapts very well to different growing environments and conditions and is also referred to as ‘Cima di Corato’ or ‘Racioppa di Corato’. The oil is harvested between November and December and has a high and consistent yield of up to 25%. The oil tastes very fruity, bitter and peppery with a hint of sweetness. Coratina oil has a very low level of acidity and is also very high in polyphenols, which make it very stable and give it an excellent shelf life.
Leccino
Leccino olives are cultivated in all the major olive growing regions of Italy. They are considered an expanding variety and the second most important in Italy. Leccino also called ‘Leccio’ is a vigorous tree of medium size and dense foliage that adapts easily to various olive growing environments and is well known for the quality and character of the oil it produces. The fruit ripens early in the season simultaneously from the tip end first which allows it to be picked early without loss of yield. The oil content is lower than some other varieties, typically between 18 and 20%. The oil produced is mellow and lightly fruity and not at all peppery or bitter. The composition of Leccino olives shows a medium-high content of oleic acid, and the levels of palmitoleic and linolenic acid in Leccino olive oil are medium. The oil is reasonably stable and very popular as a blending oil to tone down some of the more intense Italian oils.
Frantoio
This type is one of the most widely grown olives in the world and although it is grown throughout Italy, it is synonymous with Tuscany. The olives are best picked when half ripe, when they are between green and purple. The fruit is medium sized, egg shaped with an olive oil yield between 17%-22%. Oil produced from the Frantoio olive oil is the benchmark for olive oil in Italy and is one of the most highly acclaimed oil varieties in the world. It has a wonderful aroma of green leaves and grass and the flavour is intensely fruity with a hint of green apple and a good balance of peppery bitterness with a sweet almond finish. This oil is widely used as a blending oil to increase the flavour of less distinct cultivars. Frantoio olive oil has a medium-high content of oleic acid, with a medium content of linolenic and palmitoleic acid. The stability of Frantoio olive oil is average, but it produces oil with a good shelf life.
