Posts Tagged ‘extra-virgin olive oil’

Olive oil remains a mystery to many, we know that it is meant to be good for us and we have all heard about the health advantages of the Mediterranean diet with its lower level of heart disease, lower cholesterol and claims of long life. However, the reality is that often the consumer does not know why an extra virgin olive oil from, for example, the Mirabelle area of Crete, is worth paying twice as much as a stereotypical ‘olive oil’ that they can pick up at their supermarket.

At a time when convenience is an expected way of life and recession is making us all count our available pennies so much more closely, why should the consumer resist the price driven temptation of the supermarket shelf, and instead seek out alternative oils from the local delicatessen or farm shop?

In answer to this, it is helpful to compare extra virgin olive oil with wine; there are as many olive oils as there are wines and yet our knowledge of the different olives and the regions in which they are grown is reminiscent of wine knowledge twenty years ago. These days we expect to be able to choose from a broad range of budget to fine wines. However, this level of familiarity and product confidence which informs our purchase of a merlot or a cabernet sauvignon is lacking in our choice of cooking, salad and dressing oil.

UK consumers are demanding and rightfully so, we expect value for money as well as good quality but, as so often is the case, our choice or product familiarity is limited to whichever company has the larger advertising budget. Building up faith in lesser known but premium brands is part of the challenge that the smaller retailer faces, but is a challenge worth taking on. Increasing brand awareness is linked intrinsically with ensuring that our consumers feel that they are empowered with knowledge and understanding and can make informed choices as to what makes a really good extra virgin olive oil. It is the individual stories behind each speciality product that our food bloggers and social networks need to start spreading to the receptive ears of our food consumers.

For example, in a part of the world where olive trees stretch from the majesty of mountains, down through the lush green of the Lasithi Plateau to the warmth of sandy beaches, we can learn about some of the very best extra virgin olive oils in the world: Cretan Extra Virgin Olive Oil. It is the powerful combination of pride in production that walks hand-in-hand with the demanding terrain from which the oil is produced and guarantees a product of genuinely top quality.

As Manolis Koutentakis of the Heraklion Union explained the terrain in Crete calls for a huge amount from even the sturdiest of olive trees. On an island where land ownership divides amongst the siblings of each generation and therefore continually divides the land into smaller and smaller sections, olive groves are a far cry from the endless fields of orderly rows that we expect to see. Farming is labour intensive and traditional in its methods whereby olives are picked and gathered by hand. Trees cling to the sides of mountains with the tenacity of the ever present mountain goat, or enjoy the gentler pastures in areas of rich vegetation and good water supply, all elements which dictate the organoleptic and polyphenol profile of the oil.

Vassilakis Estate, based just outside of Neapoli, sees this as a unique selling point. Vassilakis is a family firm which still has one of the first pressing stones proudly displayed outside of its state-of-the-art plant. The younger generation, headed by George Vassilakis, is keen to continue producing completely unique oil, recognised for its premium quality which supports the traditional and eco-friendly methods of production. In addition to their own olive trees, Vassilakis also operate as a local cooperative for 3000 farmers whose olive harvests create the award winning ‘My Olive Oil’. Again, it is the positioning of the trees which creates a stronger or milder taste. Each bottle has a batch number which, when entered into their website, provides the information about that particular bottle of oil… the consumer really can ‘taste the difference’.

George Vassilakis will gesture to the mountains which overlook his estate and point out then towards the sea to stress his point about the variety of terrain and its affect on the taste of the oil. With great pride coupled with a sense of duty, he describes the production of oil on Crete as, ‘a gift from the Gods’. Each bottle comes with the guarantee of premium quality and taste. It is intensive, traditional farming at its most sustainably challenging but one which results in the production of extra virgin olive oil which has rightfully earned its title of ‘liquid gold’. It is this message which our demanding and deserving UK consumers need to hear.

At the present time the harvest in Spain, Italy and Greece is looking good with an estimated increase of approximately 7% over last year’s crop. Spain has had the ‘right type of rain at the right time’, and if Greece experiences some rain in the next two months, we could see a significant upward revision in their harvest’s estimate. According to initial estimates released by the International Olive Oil Council (IOC) the Global 2011/12 olive is estimated to increase from 2010/2011. IOC estimates that Spain is expected to produce 1.4 mt, Greece 310,000 mt France 5,700 mt. Italy has yet to give the IOC this year’s estimates.

The price of oil in Spain is currently so low that we do not envisage it going significantly lower, the only caveat to this is if we see a significant movement in the price of Sterling vs. the Euro. At the present time, the price has become a political issue, and there is no desire from the major bottlers to see an intervention in the market, the net effect of this is that the market for Spanish Extra Virgin should continue to be stable over the next few months. There is a good deal of oil left in Spain’s reserves from the 2010/2011 harvest, so with the upcoming predicted bumper crop the Co-ops will need the storage space. The effect of which is that there might be some good deals to be had towards the end of the season.

The Greek market is also relatively stable and with the current crop predictions, if there is to be any movement in the price, the likelihood is that it will be a downwards movement in the price. The only potential that exists for an increase in the price of Greek extra virgin oil is if we see the large Spanish and Italian bottlers buying large quantities of oil to use in the blending of their high-street brands.

As you may or may not know a large a percentage of the high street consumer brands are oils made up of extra virgin oils from all over the Mediterranean basin, and these oils are blended to a specific taste profile. Greek oil is used in this blending process to reduce the finished oil’s acidity and bitterness. However, with good oils coming from Turkey and Spain the likelihood of this happening is low – so we see no reason to secure Greek oil in anticipation of an increase in the price.

There is some concern from some of our producers about the Italian 2011/12 crop, they feel that if the rain does not come in the next few weeks the harvest will be damaged and the quality of the oil will be lower than in standard seasons. However, prices recently dipped in Italy after their high in May/June so there is some confidence that the Italian crop will be up from last year. However, it is worth keeping an eye on the rains in the South of Italy and Sicily over the next few weeks.

Focus on: Spanish Olive Oil

Currently Spain is the world’s leading producer of quality olive oil with an estimated 215 million olive trees on five million acres of farmland representing approximately 27% of the world’s olive production acreage. Spain produces between 600,000 and 1,000,000 metric tons of olive oil each year, of which around 300,000 metric tons is exported to blenders in Italy, who blend and re-export it to North America, Japan, China and Northern Europe. The Spanish olive oil industry has undergone significant change in recent years with the updating of methods of extraction and improved storage facilities increasing standards of cultivation and harvesting. The result of this is that Spanish oil is of an extremely high quality and is seriously undervalued.

Andalucía is by far the largest production area and accounts for 75% of the Spain’s production olive oil. It is estimated that there are 165 million olive trees in the region with 50% grown in the province of Jaén and 30% in Córdoba. Jáen alone produces one fifth of world’s olive oil, more than the total yield for the whole of Greece! The remaining 25% of Spanish production is distributed throughout different areas of the Mediterranean basin, with climate and soil variations giving the oils particular characteristics. The most important olive varieties representative of Spain are Picual, Hojiblanca, Lechín, Picudo, Arbequina, Cornicabra, Verdial and Empeltre with a single variety usually predominating in each of the main producing areas. Spain’s variety of geographical conditions and variable climate, when coupled with the large number of olive varieties used, means that there is a far wider range of aromas and tastes amongst Spanish oils than in those of any other oil producing nation; some taste sweet and smooth, while others have great body and charactarbequina, er with varying intensities of pleasant bitterness or pungency. Spanish olive oils usually have an intense fruity aroma reminiscent of green or ripe olives.

Let’s take a look at some of the olive varieties that give Spanish olive oil its distinctive characteristics:

Picual

The Picual olive is the world’s most prolific variety and accounts for approximately 50% of Spanish olive oil production (and 25% of the world’s olive oil production). The trees are fast growing, hardy and adaptable, but what makes this olive particularly attractive is that it can yield as much as 28% of its weight in oil. The Picual olives ripen from mid-November through late December, and can be harvested right through to March for lower grades of oil. Oil made from Picual olives is one of the most stable olive oils in the world due to its high content of oleic acid and its high polyphenol count. This gives it an excellent shelf life and makes it an excellent oil to use in food preparation as it stands up well to high heat during cooking. These properties make it a popular choice for blending with other oils that have a low stability. The oil varies from region to region but is characterised by a strong herbaceous aroma and a bitter, pungent and peppery aftertaste that mellows and softens with age. Most of the oils distributed in large volumes come from the Picual olive, including the generic supermarket own label brands.

Arbequina

Originating in Catalonia, Arbequina olives are now widely grown throughout Spain covering over 45,000 ha in Lerida, Huesca, Tarragona, and Zaragoza. The variety is popular because it produces high yields, adapts well to dense planting and is self-fertile. Arbequina olives have one of the highest concentrations of oil, with a yield of 20.5% and it has been at the centre of a push towards intensive and super-intensive farming methods as producers have looked to increase their yields per acre. The high quality oil produced by this variety has been at the heart of Spanish producers efforts to export a high quality product into new markets. Arbequina olive oil is unstable with a high content of linoleic acid and therefore has a tendency towards oxidation and a shorter shelf life than other varieties such as the Picual. It should be stored in a cool, dark place and consumed early in the season. The delicate olive oil has a fresh, fruity, herbaceous aroma that can disappear with four months of pressing. The oil lasts longer when blended with a variety that has a high content of oleic acid and a high polyphenol count. Generally, Arbequina based olive oils are buttery, with a slightly peppery finish and best used uncooked.

Picudo

This olive variety is mainly cultivated in Baena in Southern Cordoba and the adjoining provinces of Jaén, Málaga, and Granada. Maturation takes place from the end of November to the end of December. The Picudo olive is the second most common olive used in the production of olive oil and gives an excellent yield of approximately 20%. The oil has a high percentage of oleic acids, 15% linoleic acid, and low levels of polyphenols that creates unstable oil that is considered very delicate with a tendency to oxidization. Producers of Picuado oil have to be meticulous in their storage to preserve its freshness. The flavour of the oil is soft with a strong distinctive sweet and grassy flavour with a long light peppery aftertaste.

Cornicabra

This cultivar originates from central Spain and produces one of the most stable and long lasting of all oils making it extremely popular with blenders. The ripening period is late but long, lasting from the end of October to the beginning of January. This variety occupies the second-largest Spanish growing region located in the provinces of Toledo and Ciudad Real. It is the fourth most commonly grown variety accounting for approximately 12% of the total Spanish production. The Cornicabra olive delivers an average oil yield of 19% with a low linoleic acid content of approximately 5%, and a high oleic acid content of about 77%. The polypherol content of the Cornicabra variety is amongst the highest of all Spanish olives varieties, which produces extremely stable golden-green colour oil with a long shelf life. Oils made from olives that are harvested early are thick and smooth and have a stronger initial grassy taste with a slight almond aftertaste, late picked olives produce oil with a well-balanced, light peppery flavour and mellow fruitiness.

Hojiblanca

The Hojiblanca olive is also known as ‘Casta de Cabra’ or ‘Lucentino’ and is mainly grown in the eastern part of Seville, the south of Córdoba, and the north of Málaga. About 15% of the olives grown in Spain come from the Hojiblanca tree making it the third most commonly grown variety. The trees are large with fruit ripening to be harvested from the end of November to the end of December. Harvest can be difficult because the fruit clings to the branches and despite the relatively large size of the olive its yield is relatively low at about 17-19%. Hojiblanca oil has a high content of oleic acid and a high polyphenol count which gives it a long shelf life, allows it to cope well under high heat during cooking, and makes it a popular choice for blending with other oils that have a low stability. Hojiblanca oils have a range of characteristic flavours including a slightly sweet taste in the beginning, a hint of bitter unripe fruits and an almond aftertaste. It is also low in saturated fatty acids, which makes it a healthier choice. Despite the high quality of the oil, this variety of olive tree has not spread to other countries due to the relatively low oil yield.                               .

Lechín

This variety is cultivated primarily in Sevilla, Córdoba, Cádiz, and the Malaganian town of Ronda. The olives are medium to large in size and ripen relatively early in the season to deliver a yield of approximately 18%. There is a high content of palmitic acid of between 12-13% but this is balanced by the reduced content of stearic acid and by the low totals of saturated acid resulting in unstable organoleptic characteristics and a tendency to oxidization. This oil is slightly bitter, leaving an aftertaste of green almonds and does not store well developing an excessive bitterness after a time.

Verdial

The name Verdial is given to a number of varieties with similar characteristics that are produced throughout Spain. The ripening period lasts from the end of November through December and the olives give a good yield of up to 22%. The high flesh-to-stone ratio and sweet taste make it a popular choice for table olives. Verdial oils have a high content of linoleic acid, which makes them somewhat unstable; they therefore must be protected from heat, light, and air. This oil is popular with blenders and works particularly well when blended with the Hojiblanca variety. In general the Verdial varieties yield oil that is sweet and very fruity with no bitter flavours.

Empeltre

Empeltre olives which can also be known as ‘Aragonesa’, ‘Injerto’, or ‘Mallorquina’, originated from the Zaragozan city of Pedrola and are now cultivated throughout the valley of the Ebro River from Logroño to Tarragona, and on the Balearic Islands. The ripening period is from the first week of November to the first week of December and the olives yield a relatively low 18.3%. The low antioxidant content of oils produced by this variety makes them unstable and best consumed soon after extraction. This smooth oil is pale yellow in colour, sweet and aromatic with no bitter taste, making it ideal for mixing with stronger oils.

Lefktro UK Ltd has swept the board at this year’s Great Taste Awards.

The Great Taste Awards, organised by the Guild of Fine Food are the most highly-respected, rigorous and well-recognised food and drink awards in the UK, judged by a panel of 350 food industry experts.  Out of 7481 products entered this year from 1600 companies, the judges awarded just 608 Gold Two Stars and 1686 Gold One Stars.

Lefktro entered the awards for the first time this year, winning the following gold star awards:

Barbera Unfiltered Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (Spain) : Two Gold Stars

Masia El Altet Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Spain) :  One Gold Star

Charisma Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (Crete) : One Gold Star

Green Whole Giant Olives, (Greece) : One Gold Star

Lodvico Campari vinegar, (Italy) : One Gold Star

Il Borgo Red Label traditional balsamic vinegar, (Italy) : One Gold Star

Carnaroli rice, (Italy) : One Gold Star

Linguine (Italy) : One Gold Star

Winning gold awards in this year’s Great Taste Awards is a major achievement for Lefktro, a business that prides itself on consistent quality, value and industry expertise.

James Tyler said:  “We are absolutely delighted to have won.  Having never entered before, winning so many Great Taste Awards across the Lefktro range reinforces what our customers tell us.  We are very proud of all of our products; we know they taste fantastic and it’s great to be recognised in this way.”

Bob Farrand, Chairman for The Great Taste Awards, said: “Winning Gold in the country’s largest and most respected independent food accreditation scheme is a massive pat on the back for any producer – independent proof their products are of the highest quality.  Every winner should feel very proud that their hard work has been rewarded.”

The definitions set out by the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) are a comprehensive set of terms used to describe the various classifications of olive oil and olive-pomace oil available. The IOOC is an intergovernmental organization based in Madrid, Spain and is responsible for the monitoring of the production of olive oil, as well as defining and monitoring it’s quality and authenticity.

There are two main categories of oil that are of interest to IOOC: 

1. .   Olive oils – this category includes all virgin olive oils, refined olive oil, and olive oil. These oils are all obtained directly from the olive fruit without the use of solvents or re-esterification.
2. .   Olive-pomace oils – these oils are obtained by treating olive pomace (the ground olive flesh and pits left after the oil has been extracted) with solvents or other physical treatments.

In order to be classified as olive oils or olive pomace oils, oils must conform to various sensory and analytical standards set out by the IOOC and they must not have been adulterated in any way. Common ways used to adulterate olive oils are to mix them with nut, seed and vegetable oils.

Types of Olive Oil:

Today olives are grown all over the world, but most important area is the Mediterranean basin, which is responsible for the production of the majority of the world’s olive oil. Spain is the leading producer followed by Italy and then Greece. Other European producers include Portugal, Albania, Croatia, France, Slovenia and Malta. In Africa the leading producer is Tunisia, followed by Morocco, Algeria, Libya, Egypt, South Africa and Angola.  

The word ‘olive’ is as generic and unspecific as the word ‘grape’ and olive oil can be thought of in a similar manner. No two olive groves will produce an olive oil that tastes exactly alike. The olive tree comes in at least seven hundred varieties or “cultivars” and each produces oil with it’s own unique set of characteristics. The educated palate is able to detect subtle distinctions in taste and aroma and depending on the variety of olive used and the region it comes from as both make an enormous difference to the flavour, aroma and appearance of the finished product.

Unlike wine, oil does not improve with age. As a rule of thumb oil tends to be sharp when new and after a few months it tends to soften. To get around this large producers blend their oil to get a particular taste profile that is consistent throughout the year by drawing on oils from all over the Mediterranean area.

Olive oil is different from other vegetable oils because it is produced solely by mechanical means from the flesh of the fruit. The International Olive Council states that “Olive oil is the oil obtained solely from the fruit of the olive tree” and does not include “oils obtained using solvents or re-esterification processes and of any mixture with oils of other kinds.”

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Of particular interest to us is Extra Virgin Olive Oil. This type of oil is “obtained from the fruit of the olive tree solely by mechanical or other physical means under conditions, particularly thermal conditions, that do not lead to alterations in the oil, and which have not undergone any treatment other than washing, decantation, centrifugation and filtration”. Extra Virgin Olive Oil is unique amongst all edible oils because other edible oils are chosen primarily for their ability to transfer heat during cooking without excessive smoking, whereas Extra Virgin Olive Oil is an ingredient in its own right and has the ability to complement both the taste and aroma of the food. Extra Virgin Olive Oil is virgin olive oil that has a minimum organoleptic rating of 6.5 out of 10, and an acidity under 0.8%, it is olive oil of the highest quality. The principle determinant of Extra Virgin Olive Oil is acidity, which is expressed as oleic acid, and should not be more that 0.8 grams per 100 grams. Greek oils are well known for their low acidity that is typically just 0.3 grams per 100 grams and as such are often purchased in bulk by large producers and bottlers to blend with other oils to reduce their acidity and alter their flavour.   

Extra Virgin Olive Oil comes in four sub-types:

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Protected Designation of Origin  – PDO
• Protected Geographical Indication – PGI

Virgin olive oil

Virgin olive oil is olive oil that has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 2 grams per 100 grams (2.0%) and other characteristics that correspond to those fixed for this category in the IOOC standards. Their quality is lower than Extra Virgin Olive Oils.

Ordinary virgin olive

Ordinary virgin olive oil has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 3.3 grams per 100 grams (3.3%) and other characteristics that correspond to those fixed for this category in the IOOC standards. This classification is under review and may soon be merged with lampante olive oil.

Virgin olive oil not fit for consumption (Lampante Oil)

The common name for this oil is ‘Lampante Oil’ it is virgin olive oil which has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of more than 3.3 grams per 100 grams and organoleptic or other characteristics corresponding to those fixed for this category in the IOOC standards. It is intended for refining or for technical use. This oil is produced from olives that are picked very late in the season, or those that have been picked up from the ground. It can also result from poor processing.

Refined olive oil (Pure olive oil)

This is olive oil that has been obtained from virgin olive oils by refining methods which do not lead any alterations to take place in the oils’ initial glyceridic structure, and can be referred to as ‘pure olive oil’.   It has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 0.3 grams per 100 grams and its other characteristics correspond to the standards specified for this category. This oil is obtained by refining virgin olive oils (not olive-pomace oils) that have a high acidity level and/or organoleptic defects which are eliminated after the refining process. Over 50% of the oil produced in the Mediterranean area is of such poor quality that it must be refined in order to produce a product that can be deemed edible. It is important to note that no solvents have been used to extract this oil and it is refined with the use of charcoal or other chemicals and physical filters. Refined oil is generally tasteless, odourless, and colourless. Many countries deem it unfit for human consumption due to its poor flavour. This type of oil is often used in food manufacturing when producers are looking for olive oil that will not overpower the flavour of the final product.  

Olive oil

This grade of oil consists of a blend of refined olive oil and virgin olive oils that are fit for consumption. It has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 1 gram per 100 grams and its other characteristics correspond to the standards specified for this category. Most of the olive oil sold throughout the world falls into this category. Different blends are made with more or less virgin oil to achieve different tastes at different prices. Oils described as “Light” or “Extra Light” in the United States fall in this category and are most likely made with a large proportion of refined oil.

Types of olive-pomace oil:

Olive pomace oil

This grade of oil is obtained by treating olive pomace with solvents or other physical treatments. This does not include any oil that is obtained by the re-esterification processes nor does it refer to any oil that has been mixed with any other kind of oil. Olive pomace oil is predominatly used in industrial settings or in restaurants as a deep frying agent because of its high smoke point of 240 degrees Celsius. It is important to note that the process by which olive pomace oil is extracted is no different to the process used to extract other conventional cooking oils such as corn, soy, sunflower or canola oil. Where olive pomace oil differs to conventional cooking oils is that even after this process has taken place it still retains olive oil’s basic lipid profile and therefore has high levels of oleanolic acid. There are three sub-categories of olive pomace oil and the oils are sold in accordance with the following designations and definitions:

Crude olive pomace oil

This oil is olive pomace oil whose characteristics correspond to the standards specified for this category. It is intended for further refining before use for human consumption or for technical uses.

Refined olive pomace oil

This oil is obtained from crude olive pomace oil by refining methods that do not lead to alterations in the initial glyceridic structure. It has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 0.3 grams per 100 grams and its other characteristics correspond to the standards specified for this category. It is generally refined by the same methods as ‘refined olive oil’ (see above) except that the raw product is crude olive-pomace oil instead of low quality virgin oil.

Olive pomace oil

This oil is made up of a blend of refined olive pomace oil and virgin olive oils that are fit for consumption. It has a free acidity of not more than 1 gram per 100 grams and its other characteristics correspond to the standards specified for this category. Under no circumstances can this blend be called “olive oil”.

Olive oils blended with vegetable oils

It is worth commenting on blended oils as they account for a large percentage of olive oil sales in the United Kingdom. These are olive oils and olive pomace oils that have been blended with vegetable oils for reasons of taste and price. These oils would be classed by the IOOC as having been adulterated.

Salad oil

This is a blend of olive oil with a vegetable oil. The blend differs according to taste and price requirements. A popular blend in the UK is 65% Extra Virgin Olive Oil with 35% sunflower or canola oil.

Olive pomace blend

This is a blend of olive pomace oil with a vegetable oil. The blend differs according to taste and price requirements. A popular blend in the UK is 51% olive pomace oil and 49% sunflower or soya oil.